Fly fishing for brown trout on the Laxá River
Until recently, my only trip to Iceland had been a long weekend in 2016 to Reykjavik as a stopover en route to visit a niece in Amsterdam. While there I spent a few hours fishing for cod in the harbor and was rewarded with a fish dinner that I shared with my wife in a local restaurant. On that trip, I learned that a more worthy angling adversary would be large brown trout and I earmarked that as a bucket list trip for the future.
Not long ago I learned that a favorite fishing guide in the UK, Martin Cottis, had started organizing trips to fish the Laxá River in Northern Iceland and I began to pester him to include me. Thankfully, he had an opening for his second week of fishing in July of 2024 and I was about to check the box of another fishing trip on my bucket list. It would prove to be an epic experience.
Getting to your fishing holiday in Iceland
It is a short flight of 6 hours from the Eastern Seaboard of the US to Reykjavik, and then a drive of 6 hours to Northern Iceland from Keflavik International Airport. There is the option to book an onward flight to Akureyri airport, which is one hour from Laxá River fishing. However, unpredictable weather patterns can complicate the reliability of flights into Akureyri. Before leaving Keflavik, it is an important requirement to have all of your fishing equipment disinfected by a customs official (at the angler’s expense) and have the receipt confirming the procedure on your person while fishing.
Fishing season in Iceland
Although the freshwater fishing season in Iceland runs from April 1st to October 20, the brown trout season generally spans the three months of June to August. The more viable period to fish for brown trout on the Laxá is during July and August, and even then, weather conditions can be unaccommodating. This part of Iceland is on the cusp of the Arctic Circle and weather patterns can vary greatly – we witnessed all four seasons several times over the course of our week of fishing. Any reasonable wind was welcome as it drove away the midges, which are pesky during the summer. We made sure to have a head net handy when the bug activity became persistent.
Fly fishing on the Laxá River
The Laxá (which translates as salmon in Icelandic), also known as Big Laxá, comprises 58km of prime brown trout water that is considered to be among the best in Europe. These brown trout are native to Iceland and are fierce fighters that punch above their weight-class. Our host, Martin Cottis, called them “dirty fighters” that would expose any weakness in an angler’s technique or tackle. Expect a fragile knot, a wind knot or a damaged leader/tippet to be taken advantage of by these cunning fish.
Fishing for brown trout on the Laxá in Laxádarlur
Our fishing excursion would begin on a section of the river referred to as Laxá in Laxádarlur near to the seaside village of Húsavik. Here the Laxá flows through a long, narrow valley flanked by low, grassy ridges. The river here is more accessible and generally more easily wadable, with attractive pools and riffles that offer great dry fly fishing. This section of the Laxá also is known to hold larger trout than the upriver section near Lake Myvatn.
Our accommodation was a small rustic cabin in lava fields near to the local airport, about a 15-minute drive from Húsavik. It was a convenient spot to access our fishing beats and take lunch breaks at restaurants in the village. Húsavik also has several whale watching outfitters that embark on three-hour cruises several times per day. Another interesting side trip is to witness a thriving puffin nesting area on a bluff in the headlands about 20 minutes north of Húsavik.
Fishing for brown trout on the Laxá in Myvatnsveit
After four days of fishing various beats on Laxá in Laxádarlur, we headed 35 miles south to the Laxá in Myvatnsveit, near to Lake Myvatn, which is situated in a landscape characterized by diverse volcanic landforms and geothermal features. Myvatn translates as midge in Icelandic and the presence of a rich supply of aquatic insects attracts a varied population of migratory bird life that come to nest in the summer. There we were accommodated in a rustic lodge that offered three full meals and we contracted a local guide to accompany us on the water.
The Laxá in Myvatnsveit section comprises a more challenging set of fishing beats. Here the water comprises a myriad of pools, pockets, lava shelves, back waters and riffles. Reaching the river generally requires a robust hike over challenging pastoral land dominated by dense clusters of tufted grasses, called tussocks, sometimes with no discernible pathway. The uneven clumps would have been difficult to navigate in proper hiking shoes, but became an even more demanding grind in wading boots. One also had to be careful of volcanic holes and fissures hidden among the tussocks. And then, once at the riverbank, a stiff wind and ‘grabby’ Angelica plants represented an additional impediment.
But the reward was worth the effort, if not just for dramatic landscapes, but also for epic brown trout fishing, which is featured in Part II of the blog.
Note: I am not being compensated for my mention of trout guide, Martin Cottis. I am simply a happy client. You can learn more about his guiding services on his website.
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